It’s easy to forget that Cattleman’s serves BBQ when steak is the reason to make the trek out to Fabens. Not to worry; you can save room for steak by ordering the BBQ appetizer. In true West Texas tradition, their beef is smoked overnight using mesquite. Combo plates are available with large back ribs, thick slices of brisket or beef cubes cut from the fatty end that has caramelized into a smoky crust. Arrive early; BBQ is served while it lasts. By the way, this local 40-year veteran was finally able to bust Famous Dave’s six-year winning streak. 3450 S. Fabens Carlsbad Rd., Fabens, Texas 79838; cattlemanssteakhouse.com.